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Montserrat: An Afternoon’s Retreat Atop This Catalonian Mountain

When you think of the Spanish region of Catalonia, you may think of the Pyrenees Mountain range and the wide variety of beach resorts in the lively Costa Brava. You would never imagine anything like monasteries, monks, and the Virgin Mary springing to mind when you think of this Spanish region.


To the southeast of this region, however, lies a mountain peak that holds the key to one of Catalonia’s more well-known places of worship. Located approximately 53km from the northeast Spanish coast, this mountain peak, formerly known as Montserrat, hides a small village overlooking one of Catalonia's most picturesque landscapes.


I embark on a 50-minute journey from Barcelona’s Estación de Autobus, where I will be journeying up to the Montserrat mountain peak. During this journey, I envision myself wandering through the monastery of Montserrat, with carol singers in the background as I progress through this historical place of worship. I will no doubt be doing this and sampling some of Montserrat's finest liquors produced locally while pondering the thought of buying a bottle afterward.


The view from my coach window as I approach Montserrat


Two methods of accessing this mountain peak involve a cogwheel train or a cable car, both of which will provide charming views of nearby and faraway mountains. I decide to use the cogwheel train, as although the journey is longer, it allows me to endure 15 minutes of gazing out of the window in admiration of the views before me. The train itself has a pleasant amount of air-conditioning, which makes the train experience more relaxing.


The train proceeds up the mountain at a snail’s pace until it finally reaches the summit at Cremallera De Montserrat. I depart from this train and learned that while the coach was a helpful method of transportation, it was simple enough to get a train from Barcelona to Montserrat. I make a mental note about this should I desire to return.


The view out of the cog-wheel train as I escalated upwards


I emerge from an upward escalator and out into Montserrat itself. As I emerge, I find myself in a truly traditional village located on a mountaintop. The buildings in front of me may appear longstanding, but they house different audio tours, gift shops, and cafes for those visiting and needing refreshments. Looking to my right, I notice the road heads up and around towards a restaurant with idyllic views to the right. What better way to begin my afternoon in Montserrat than to admire the clear views as I stroll towards this restaurant?


The clear idyllic views from Montserrat's main road


I start and stop walking up towards the Bufet De Montserrat restaurant because I am distracted by the views to my right. The oceanic blue sky makes these views clearer. I approach the restaurant and briefly browse the menu on display, my hunger surging just by looking at the available items. As I had a hefty lunch in Barcelona prior to visiting, I couldn’t sample any further foods for the time being.


I then head back down towards the cogwheel train station and notice on my left, in the distance, the Cross of St Michael. There is a route that takes visitors from the centre of Montserrat to this cross, but I am sadly in no attire to embark on a hike up to this Cross. Instead, I turn to the gift shop, where I am presented with the chance to sample some of Montserrat’s locally produced liquors.


The first liquor I sample gives me a pleasant impression of Montserrat’s finest alcohol tastes. I then sample three other liquor flavours: walnut, hazelnut, and crème brulee. The intense feeling in the back of my throat confirms that the liquor brewers local to Montserrat know how to brew the finest liquors. This also tells me that they are made to the correct strength when swallowed and are not too sturdy.


With the strength of the liquors lingering in the back of my throat, I continue my stroll around the gift shop and observe all the other delicacies on offer. Packs of madeleines, jars of flavoured honey, and boxes of chocolates align half of the shelves in this shop, increasing my temptation to splurge out.


A selection of madeleines on display in the gift shop


With my trip to this gift shop complete, I then proceed up and around Montserrat via its singular main road. This leads me to an archway with the Montserrat Coat of Arms baldly displayed, welcoming me to the Basilica as I approach it slowly. A large flat area provides plenty of space for children to run around while the parents sit and decide on their next touring plans.


The Montserrat Coat of Arms


Walking towards the lampposts, I have an even more indulgent view of the faraway mountains. I gaze at this view for a few minutes before entering Montserrat’s Basilica. Taking off my cap in respect, I proceed through the archway on the far right-hand side to find myself strolling along an extensive historical corridor.  This leads me to be absorbed by the Basilica and its peacefulness as I observe a few locals sitting in silence, deep in thoughts and prayers.


I already feel like I am living the life of an actual monk, attempting to listen to the voice of the god that they would have worshipped. I am slowly making my way through this Basilica, taking in the silent ambiance and noticing the scattered statues around it. I then make my way up a flight of stairs which leads me to the Black Madonna itself. It is easily recognisable by the globe she is holding, with half of this globe sticking outside the cabinet in which it is stored.


The Black Madonna, sitting in the heart of the Basilica


Others walking before me stop to place their hands on the globe as if they are dominating it. As the queue to place their hands on the globe passes by, I head down another flight of stairs, which leads me back into the main centre of the Basilica. I take another few minutes to fill myself with more spiritual thoughts before I slowly make my way to the exit of the Basilica.


On my route to the exit, I pass a lengthy display of candles lit previously by visitors to the Basilica. These have been lit to commemorate deceased loved ones while also carrying out a quiet prayer for this loved one before departing. I emerge from the Basilica’s exit and back into the open area at its entrance before exiting it.


The front entrance to Montserrat's Basilica


As my time in Montserrat comes to an end, I meander up the same road I walked up earlier to reach its Estación de Autobus to catch my coach, which will return me to Barcelona. I take one final look at the enchanting views at this coach park before boarding, filled with as much spirit as a monk living peacefully on this mountain peak.

 

The Travelling Foodie’s Facts and Figures


  • My afternoon spent at Montserrat was made possible thanks to the tour provider Julia Travel. The excursion cost €57 in total, and further details about what is included can be found by Clicking Here.

  • Visitors are advised to wear clothing covering their shoulders and knees, especially when entering the Basilica. This shows respect for Montserrat's religious nature.

  • As well as exploring the main area of Montserrat, there is a path which can be taken to lead up to the Cross of St Michael. This provides another birds eye view overlooking Montserrat and the mountains around it.

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