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The Moinho do Félix Trail
The minivan carrying a group of friends and me pulls up outside Fenaís da Ajuda village, where our adventure along the Moinho do Félix trail begins. Even with the weather overcast and unpredictable, it doesn't deter our determination to find these ruins, along with some hidden waterfalls along the way.
Ensuring I have my belongings ready, I set off with my friends towards the main centre of the village, in the direction of Lomba de Baixo. The road we tread along leads us downhill with some of Fenaís da Ajuda’s ruins to the left. The road then leads us onto the village’s main street, where we stop for a few minutes for refreshment purchases before continuing the journey.
With our thirst quenched with energy drinks and soft drinks, we then proceed along the main road. The houses to our left and right give the feel of the traditional house structures that have been kept in place, presumably for decades, if not hundreds of years. The road continues past these houses before dropping briefly and then climbing steeply to the right.
We then pass acres of fields on both sides, one of which has a group of cows gazing at us as we hike past. We put on some jazz to see if they respond well to it, but instead they stay oblivious and don't move an inch. After a few minutes, we leave them be and continue toward the Azorean coast, heading slightly downhill.
We then turn right and walk alongside the Azorean coast to our left. For a short period, the walking gradients are mixed, and so is the range of colours given by the hydrangeas to our right. Our guide stops us for a moment to point out the signs on the trail and explains what each one means (mainly directing hikers to follow the route or avoid a route). Coastal views remain visible as we walk along the Miradouro da Rocha until we reach steep downhill gradients, where walking in a straight line becomes difficult.
Our guide recommends zig-zagging to stay balanced as we cautiously tread down the hill. Our guide races ahead, keeping steady on the gradient, to a spot where parting some hydrangea reveals the view of the Cascata do Homem waterfall on our route. We take a moment to admire this secret waterfall from a distance before continuing downhill until the path levels out.
After waiting for everyone to catch up, our guide directs us onto a woodland path to the right, where we begin our ascent. Surrounded by an Azorean woodland, we continue up the hill, determination coursing through us as motivation to get to the top. It takes a lot of effort, but we manage to reach the top, where the gradient levels out. A small group of hikers pass us heading in the opposite direction, and our guide praises my pronunciation after I greeted them correctly.
Shortly, we begin to take a stone staircase downwards, and slowly but surely the roaring sound of the second waterfall comes into earshot, getting louder with each step we take. The steps downwards finally cease, and shortly afterwards we find ourselves facing the Cascata do Teófilo waterfall. A pool of murky-looking water is available for those wanting to take a quick swim up close to the waterfall, which one of my friends decides to do. A viewing platform is also available, which I take advantage of to take some beautiful pictures of this waterfall.
After my friend finishes his swimming session and we've had snacks, we start climbing back up the steps to rejoin the path leading to the final waterfall. Treading on through the woodland, the gradient noticeably increases to the point where another staircase becomes available to our left. We take this staircase, using careful steps and holding the handrail to avoid slipping, and the ruins of Moinho do Félix eventually come into view.
Originally a watermill used to grind grain and make bread, it marks the point where hikers like us reach the doorstep of Cascata da Gruta. Passing these ruins, we walk in the direction of this waterfall, where we notice a viewing point under it. Knowing we have encountered the last waterfall on the hike, we head towards this viewing point and stop to hear the booming roar given off by the Cascata da Gruta waterfall. Our guide stands in the distance, taking pictures of all of us as we admire the water crashing down into the pool below.
We take time to rest opposite the waterfall, and are also joined by a duck who waddles over in the hope that any remaining snacks can be passed on. We know we need a steep climb back to the main road, and after a short period of preparation, we head up the steep path. Steep steps accompany this possibly most challenging element of the trail, as well as sweat dripping off of me with each step upwards.
We begin to hear the sound of traffic on the main road, and determination courses through me once more to make it there with everyone else. Sure enough, I take my final steps before reaching the main road, and therefore the end of the Moinho do Félix trail.
Having completed this strenuous yet gorgeous trail, I also feel a sense of achievement in that I have discovered three of the Azores’ most beautiful waterfalls. My eagerness to discover more hidden gems on the island during my time here grows, and I'm certainly not deterred by the fact that more hiking may be needed to reach them.
The Travelling Foodie's Facts and Figures
The official trailhead for this hike was at the R. do Calço de Cima crossroads, where the R. do Calço de Cima and R. da Chã roads meet.
You can Click Here to locate the map that shows the trail that was taken for this hike.
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